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Thursday, October 11, 2012

Hena Mali Nzi?

When you go out shopping in the States, you get in your car, drive to a store or mall, walk into an air-conditioned or heated building, make your selections and then go pay for all your items. Most places have a wide variety of things to select from and multiples of every item. In addition, the prices are non-negotiable; what the price tag says is the price! 

In Zambia? It’s a bit different to say the least. Don’t get me wrong, there are grocery stores, retail shops and malls. However, these are only in the large cities and can be very expensive.

So, where does everyone shop? Open markets! 

The shops in the markets are manned mostly by women, but some men also are the sellers. The women place their produce on tables or on the ground in front of them in order for shoppers to see all they have. The produce stands are usually in one area outside while the rest of the goods are sold in little stalls within the ‘market area’ along narrow dirt paths. The stalls that the shops are in are put together sometimes with lumber or branches or reed mats or even tall grass fences. 

The produce stands offer a wide variety of fruits and vegetables. Tomatoes, cabbage and rape (kale) are the most common. However, potatoes, onions, different roots, bananas, oranges, and sometimes apples are also available. It does not get cold enough here in Zambia, so the apples are all from South Africa. They are so tasty! 

The shops in the ‘inside’ market have so many different items! Every stall either seems to have the exact same things as the next person, or completely different. Basins, buckets, jerry cans, metal plates and bowls, silverware, tea kettles, or wooden nshima spoons may be sold at two or three stalls in a row. Then the next place will only have chitenges. Some men or women just sell dry beans or small dried fish, called kapenta. There are also numerous stalls that sell sandals, shoes, and other clothing. It’s amazing to me sometimes how so many places can all sell the exact same items! 

Once you have found what you would like to purchase in the market, it is then time to pay! This can be an experience all on its own. In the states prices are always set, whereas here in Zambia ALL prices can be negotiable! 

When buying an item in Southern Province, you first ask how much, “Mali nzi?” When they say the price, you can say, “Amundipe,” please give me. Or, you can tell them the price is too high and ask if they can lower the price, “Muulo wayuma, amujosye asyoonto.” And then the bargaining begins! The haggling can get pretty intense sometimes, but I must say I am not so good at it and probably give in too early. With time I will develop my skills! 

Shopping in Zambian markets is definitely a one of a kind experience. However, with the reasonable prices comes some jumping of mud puddles and ignoring the persistent calls from some sellers. In addition, being thought as or called “mzungu,” a rich, white person, can add to the stress of buying in markets. Locals may deliberately set prices too high just because they assume a white person or someone not from Zambia has a lot of money. As a Peace Corps volunteer, this is most certainly not the case! 

Besides some of the unfortunate aspects of market shopping, it is really a great place to get produce and/or supplies for just about anything. In addition, there is great opportunity to have conversations in Tonga with the shopkeepers and brush up on the local language. 

This past week I have had my fair share of market time, as well as SPAR and bulk distributors shopping, and am happy to say that I have purchased just about everything I will need for the next three months to make my village house a home. From buckets and basins to chitenges and plastic shelves, I am confident I will have a full house of furnishings to make life in the village comfortable.